Friday, September 18, 2009

APR vs. Interest Rates?

Sometimes I have clients asking me the difference between the APR rate and their interest rate. They are completely separate items, but below is some information that should be helpful that I received from a lender:


APR (Annual Percentage Rate)


If you're willing to know how much your mortgage costs, the APR or Annual Percentage Rate is what you should watch out for. Lenders are required to disclose the APR as part of the Truth-in-Lending disclosure (as per the Truth-in-Lending Act).

What is APR?


The APR is not the actual rate or note rate advertised by the lender. It is the effective rate which represents the cost of borrowing a mortgage loan. Lenders calculate APR taking into account the closing costs and the interest rate on a mortgage. The Annual Percentage Rate is often used to compare mortgage lenders and the programs they offer. However, it is not an effective tool for lender/loan comparison because a mortgage with high APR may often be a better option compared to one with a low APR.

What fees/costs does the APR include?

Some of the fees/closing costs that the APR includes are:

Points (discount and origination points)
Prepaid interest (from closing date to the end of the month)
Loan processing fee
Underwriting fee
Document preparation fee
Private mortgage insurance


Why is APR not the only factor to compare loans?

The Annual Percentage Rate shouldn't be considered as the only factor to compare mortgage lenders or loans. One should take into account other factors like the interest rate, closing costs and lender fees. The APR assumes zero inflation thereby considering that the value of dollar would remain same even after 10-20 years. But this isn't true. Besides, when lenders calculate APR, they assume that the mortgage won't be paid off early even though the average life span of the loan ranges from 5 to 7 years for most borrowers.

The APR also doesn't consider the value of money used for paying lender fees even though you may use it to get a low rate on your mortgage. Until and unless the fees are added to the closing costs, the lenders won't consider it when they calculate APR.

Here's an example to show why you shouldn't compare loans just by the APRs on offer. Just check out the calculation on how to compare loans with different APR explained below. It will give the idea as to what other factors (besides Annual Percentage Rate) should be considered while comparing loans and which lender has the better offer for you.

Let's consider 2 mortgages - X and Y, both being fixed rate mortgages of the same amount and loan term (30 years).

Loan X has the following details:

Mortgage amount = $200,000
Interest rate = 6%
APR = 6.25%
Lender fees = $5000


The amount financed (loan amount minus fees, points, etc) = $(200,000 – 5000) = $195,000.

Monthly payment = $ 1199.10

Loan Y has the following details:

Mortgage Amount = $200,000
Interest = 6.25% APR = 6.45%
Lender fees = 1500

The amount financed = $(200000 – 1500) = $198,500

The monthly payment = $ 1231.43
The monthly payments on loan X and loan Y differ by = $(1231.43 - 1199.1) = $32.33

From the calculation on loan comparison with different APR explained above, we see that loan X has a low Annual Percentage Rate and requires you to pay lower monthly payment as compared to loan Y. But you need to pay higher lender fees for loan X whereas if you go for loan Y, you can save $(5000 – 1500) = $3500 in fees.

On the other hand, if you go for loan X, you'll save only $32.33 on a monthly basis. Using this savings, you can recoup the $3500 in = (3500/32.33) = 108 months or 9 years. If you'd like to sell the property within the 9 year period, then you won't be able to recoup the extra fees. In such a case, loan Y will cost you less. So, if you'd like to relocate within a short term, say 5-6 years, then loan X isn't the right one for you. Thus, a loan with a higher APR and low fees may be a better option than one with a low APR and higher fees.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

July Home Maintenance Checklist

Hope everyone had a great July 4th! The rain was a little disappointing but despite that, it is nice to have a day off (well, for most of us) and to get some reflection time. I can't believe it's July already! The year is going by so quickly. Here is a great checklist for the month of July, to keep your home in tip-top shape.

July home-maintenance checklist



Use the good weather to clean and repair asphalt, concrete and fences. Prune or remove problem trees and protect landscaping from deer. Conduct your own home-energy audit and put insulating foam jackets on hot-water pipes.
By Marilyn Lewis of MSN Real Estate




Take advantage of warm weather while playing or doing chores to also cast a protective eye on your home and landscaping. By paying attention, you’ll learn to spot deterioration or changes before they turn into problems.

Give your home an energy audit
Take an hour to walk around your home with a notepad in hand, taking inventory of gaps and cracks. Experts estimate that you can save 20% on heating and cooling bills by plugging leaks. Start your inspection inside. Turn off the electricity at the circuit box, then remove switch-plate covers to look for gaps. (Replace them with insulated covers for $3 to $4 each or install foam inserts – also called gaskets – for about 49 cents each. Both can be purchased at hardware stores.) You can insulate phone-jack covers, too.

Next, check the junctures where windows meet walls, walls meet floors and pipes and wires enter the home, plugging gaps with caulk. Other leaky zones include fireplace dampers, mail slots, window-mounted (or wall-mounted) air conditioners, attic doors, baseboards and weather stripping surrounding doors. Look for daylight, feel for drafts and listen for rattles, all clues to escaping heat. Next, check the house from the outside, examining the places where pipes, vents or wiring enter. Examine siding for gaps or damage, paying particular attention to corners where the material joins and where it meets other materials, like chimneys, windows or the foundation.
If you’d rather get a professional checkup, call your utility company for referrals. Many utilities even provide rebates for home-energy audits performed by recommended auditors.

What's your home worth?
Insulate hot-water pipesInsulate the hot-water pipes in the basement or crawl space to save on heating costs next winter. Insulating pipes is done by snapping foam jackets – use pre-slit, hollow-core, flexible foam pipe insulation (called “sleeves”), purchased at a hardware store. (Prices vary but, for example, a 6-foot-long piece of foam insulation for half-inch copper pipe might cost less than a dollar.) When shopping, know your pipe’s diameter to get the correct fit. See Department of Energy installation instructions. Exposed pipes pinch your wallet twice: You waste water running it as you wait for it to heat up, and you waste fuel when heat is lost as hot water runs through exposed pipes.

Tip: Slip sleeves on pipes running between the hot-water tank and the wall and also insulate cold-water pipes for the first 3 feet after they enter the house.
Read: 14 ways to lower your heating bill

Claim your insulation tax credit
The beauty of insulation is that you can get back some of the money you spend. Not only do you save on heating costs, but you can get money back on your taxes. Claim a tax credit for 30% of the cost of insulation materials (not labor), up to $1,500. The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 lets you deduct the cost of such improvements as “adding insulation, energy-efficient exterior windows and energy-efficient heating and air conditioning systems,” according to the Internal Revenue Service. That means, if you spend $500 on insulation materials, you can take a tax credit of $150. Learn more at IRS.gov.
Read: Install upgrades and slash your tax bill

Clean patio furniture
Mix up a bucketful of soapy bleach solution to maintain your patio furniture. Here’s the recipe: 2/3 cup trisodium phosphate (TSP), 1/3 cup laundry soap powder, a quart of bleach and three quarts of warm water. Remove cushions before spraying. Launder removable fabric coverings. Use a rag and soft-bristle brush to remove embedded dirt on synthetic coverings, metal and wood furniture. Rinse thoroughly and let dry. Spray wicker furniture with water and protect it with paste wax. Simply shoot the garden hose at resin furniture. To remove rust from metal furniture or bolts use Naval Jelly, available at hardware stores, with a wire brush. Wear rubber gloves and follow directions on the package.

Tip: Return fabric coverings to the cushions and frames on which they belong while still damp, to prevent shrinking.

Clean concrete
Power washers can be dangerous to decks (in the hands of amateurs, they can damage wood), but they’re just the tool for cleaning concrete sidewalks, driveways and patio and pool areas. If your garage or carport floor is marred by oil stains, saturate the area with a solution made from a cup of TSP mixed with a gallon of hot water. (Wear goggles and rubber gloves.) Let the solution soak for a half-hour, then scrub with a stiff-bristled brush. Rinse thoroughly and repeat as necessary.

While washing concrete, watch to ensure that the hard surface directs water away from the home’s foundation. If the concrete sends water toward the foundation, take action. First, inspect around the outside of the foundation for damage, looking for cracks and crumbling. Then check from the inside (go into the basement or crawl space) for water stains and wet soil. If water is getting into the foundation, hire a home inspector or structural engineer to help find a solution. You may need to redirect the drainage by removing or correcting the slope of the concrete. If that’s not feasible, a sump pump could be used to mechanically remove the water. A sump pump’s operation is triggered when water reaches a predetermined level under the home, setting off a floating switch.

Slip 'feet' under deck planters
Since standing water rots wood, make certain that water drains directly onto the ground when you water plants in pots and decorative planters on decks. Make drainage room by setting pots on pot “feet” (sold at garden-supply stores that carry pots). Or use pot stands – some have wheels that enable you to move heavy pots. Or for a frugal solution, just prop bricks under the pots, taking care to ensure that they’re stable.


Patch cracks in concreteInspect concrete for cracks. To patch them, clean the cracked area well with a wire brush and small broom. To repair narrow cracks, use masonry crack filler. It comes in cartridges and can be injected into the crack. For bigger openings, apply vinyl concrete patching compound, smoothing the surface with a putty knife.

Patch cracks in asphalt
You can extend the life of an asphalt driveway or path by inspecting it two or three times a year and using a caulking gun and asphalt patching caulk ($5 to $15 a tube) to repair cracks. If you leave cracks, they’ll grow and plants can take root, widening the damage. Squirt the caulk into the cracks and use a disposable putty knife to even the surface. Every five years, treat asphalt to a coat of asphalt sealer ($50-$100 for a five-gallon bucket). Brush it on with a squeegee or push broom.

Prune or remove problem trees
Get a certified arborist to inspect your trees and tell you if any are hazardous. Trees hanging over your roof, rubbing against gutters or dropping loads of leaves and sticks onto the roof should be pruned. Overhanging branches can provide a ladder for rats and squirrels, and diseased or damaged trees may fall on your home in a storm. A typical arborist’s fee is $65 an hour. (Use the American Society of Consulting Arborists’ directory to find an arborist near you.) For pruning or tree removal, call a tree-care service (here’s the International Society of Arboriculture’s directory.)

Trees can bring up boundary issues. They may straddle the property line between you and your neighbor or the branches from your neighbor’s tree may drop fruit onto your land. Although state tree laws vary, in general you have the right to trim branches on your side of the property line as long as you don’t endanger the life of the tree. If you kill the neighbor’s tree, you are liable. An arborist who understands local laws can be a great mediator between neighbors.
Read: 'Arborcide' and 4 other nasty tree fights

Clean exhaust fans
Exhaust fans do a lot of work in your home. In bathrooms, they push out moisture to keep walls and floors dry and prevent the growth of mold. (Be sure to run the fan before taking a bath or shower and keep it running for 15 minutes after you leave the room, so moisture has a chance to clear.) Before you begin cleaning the fan, turn off its power at the circuit breaker box. Dust the vents on the fan’s cover (do this monthly). Use a screwdriver to remove the cover. Gently clean the inside of the cover and the fan blade with a slightly damp cloth or spray cleaner and a paper towel. Dry and reassemble. Do this twice a year.

Professional Services
In kitchens, exhaust fans vent moisture along with oily fumes. Making sure the electricity is disconnected at the circuit breaker box, start by removing the washable filter from the stove's exhaust fan. You’ll find the fan either in the range between the burners or in a hood over the stove. If the fan can be pulled out, unplug it, remove it and extract the filter. Otherwise, just remove the filter. Put it through the dishwasher or soak it in warm soapy water. Vacuum the opening of the fan, then clean the blades and housing with a cloth and spray cleaner or degreaser.

Mend the fence
Even the cheapest new fences cost thousands of dollars. Protect your investment by looking for damage and making prompt repairs. Before touring your fence line, mow the grass low so you’ll have good visibility. Watch for signs that dogs have tunneled under the fence. Training and a watchful eye are the best ways to prevent dogs from digging. Otherwise, attaching a 2-foot-wide apron of wire mesh around the inside perimeter of the fence may work. As you walk the fence, test the strength of the connections by gently tugging posts and slats to ensure they’re well-attached. Check fence posts for signs of rot (poke soft spots in the wood for crumbling or decay). Remove and replace the damaged areas. Keep fences painted or stained to protect the wood. Repaint or stain when the original finish is thin, cracked or peeling. Before painting, hose off and scrub dirty boards, letting them dry thoroughly.

Repel deer
Deer can demolish hundreds or thousands of dollars of landscaping in an evening or two. There are several things you can do to keep deer away from your investment:
Use deer-proof plantings. Identify deer-resistant plants or check a plant’s status with Rutgers University’s New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station’s tool. Bear in mind that such lists are no guarantee: Deer often eat plants they’re not supposed to like.

Install a mini fence or put bird netting around prized plants. Garden stores have these materials and can instruct you how to use them.

Spray with a home-made deer repellent. Search online garden forums for recipes for repellents that blend eggs, hot sauce (or cayenne pepper), raw garlic, yogurt or buttermilk and dish soap. Spray every three or four days and after a rain.

Purchase one of the better commercial deer repellent sprays. Check with your local garden store or cooperative extension master gardeners for recommendations. Wikipedia lists cooperative extension services around the country, as does Bayer.


Friday, July 3, 2009

A Greener Way to Clean



Recently I completed all of my courses and received the Nationa Association of Realtors GREEN designation. No matter what your role is in the real estate transaction (whether buyer, seller, builder, developer, property manager, tenant, etc), a NAR Green Designee can help you distinguish fact from fiction and make educated decisions about: green materials, energy-efficient technology, green ratings, green design, green living, green incentives and more! Whether you're going green to save the planet or just save some money, a NAR Green Designee can help you get started- that's me!




All of this has inspired me to be more conscious about my own eco-footprint. I'm in the process of collecting a list of green vendors and resources for my clients. It can be hard to change your lifestyle overnight, but every little bit helps. One great kitchen cleaning products line that I happened upon in the store is the Scotch-Brite Greener Clean. This line of scrubbers, soap pads, wipes and sponges are made with a mix of natural fibers (including bamboo, agave, etc) and also recycled materials (such as recycled plastic bottles, paper and more). In general, one important thing to keep in mind while shopping for green products is also the packaging they come in. A green product isn't very eco-friendly if it's made with a bunch of new plastic & paper. These Scotch-Brite Greener Clean products are packaged in 80-100% recycled content as well.




The Absorbent Cloth, a great alternative to paper towels, is also washable & reusable, which is nice. All of the sponges in this line are biodegradable as well, so you don't have to feel guilty when throwing it away. If you're looking for a little way to start becoming greener, check out these products and let me know what you think!


Saturday, June 13, 2009

The Recyclable House

I've been so busy recently with my first time homebuyers that I haven't had any time for posting! I've also been working on getting my NAR Green Designation (almost done!). While studying for one of the exams, I found this interesting article about Ken Ortiz, who is currently the only certified deconstructionist in the midwest. What's a deconstructionist? In terms of homes, it's basically someone who does almost the opposite of building a home. It's not like a demolition, but taking apart something very carefully and re-using the materials. Below is an article from the Chicago Reader explaining some more about this process.

~







If Ken Ortiz has his way, no one in Chicago will ever simply demolish a building again.
By Harold Henderson



Ken Ortiz has more work than he can handle. As the only certified deconstructionist in the midwest, he’d like nothing better than to train some competitors.
Ortiz doesn’t write unreadable literary criticism; he’s a Northbrook-based contractor who takes down buildings and saves almost all the pieces. After doing construction for 25 years and throwing away “tons of good building materials,” he delights in being able to save 23-foot-long two-by-sixes for reuse as two-by-sixes.

And pretty much everybody else is delighted too—environmentalists, preservationists, antiques dealers, even the folks who live around the houses he’s taking down. “I’ve never been involved with something that’s such a win-win for everybody,” he says. But few people realize that there’s an affordable alternative to conventional demolition, and building and environmental regulations aren’t yet geared to let deconstruction become less of a novelty.

Deconstructing a house is supposed to be just like building it, only in reverse. That wasn’t quite true of the house on Wilson where I met Ortiz to watch him at work. From the street, the green stucco three-story looked like its neighbors, except for the telltale 30-foot Dumpster parked in the driveway. (Ortiz hates Dumpsters, but until someone figures out how to reuse or even recycle stucco, asphalt roofing, and plaster, he’s stuck with them.)

The house had been gutted and then some. Gone were the appliances, cabinets, trim, doors, and the never-sanded three-quarter-inch red oak tongue-and-groove flooring. (“We saved 95 percent of it,” says Ortiz.) An orderly forest of upright rough-cut two-by-fours remained to hold up the structure and define where the rooms had been. Overhead, long beams ran the full width of the house.

With the lath and plaster gone, the high-quality siding underlying the stucco was visible from inside. Ortiz’s crew chief and four workers were shoveling the last of the plaster from the kitchen walls and ceiling. (Deconstruction involves more hand labor than conventional demolition.) The small backyard was divided between a “denailing station” and a stacking area for heavy lumber and appliances. The garage, also slated for deconstruction, was being saved for the moment to store molding, flooring (organized by length in banded bundles), doors with their frames and hardware, and a few unique pieces—like the solid oak classical columns that had once separated the living and dining rooms.

Deconstruction is possible because there’s a market for this stuff, and at the high end it’s been around for a while. West Wilson was Ortiz’s fourth deconstructed house, but auctioneer Jodi Murphy of La Grange Park averages an auction a week in the metro area. Last year Murphy and Ortiz worked together on a Glencoe house built in 1950 and renovated in 1994. “After Jodi took out all the pretty stuff,” says Ortiz, “we removed two 48-foot semitrailers full of lumber and building materials.”

Marketing these items requires some organization, and that’s where Ted Reiff and his brainchild, the Reuse People of America, or TRP (thereusepeople.org), come in. Reiff, aka “the man with the velvet crowbar,” is an investment banker turned nonprofit entrepreneur. Now headquartered in Oakland, TRP started in 1993 as a relief operation to help flood victims in Mexico. It’s now active in Seattle, Boulder, Denver, San Diego, Los Angeles, and the Bay Area, has deconstructed more than 1,000 buildings, and is moving into Chicago. Ortiz is TRP’s regional manager.

“Anyone can save something and keep it out of the landfill,” Reiff told the authors of the book Unbuilding: Salvaging the Architectural Treasures of Unwanted Houses. “Contractors save stuff all the time. Their garages are full, their backyards are full”—Ortiz has his own cache of iron window weights from old double-hung windows. “But eventually they throw most of the materials away because they run out of room,” he said. “The challenge as I see it is to move salvaged materials to markets where they can be reused.”

Some of these markets are nearby—locally deconstructed lumber has gone to Habitat for Humanity’s Restore in Elgin. Some are overseas. “We ship a tremendous amount of our product to Mexico, especially southern yellow pine,” says Reiff. Some high-end woods go to Japan—“They appreciate lumber; they don’t have any”—where they may turn up in cowboy-themed restaurants. Other destinations include Belize, Chile, the Philippines, and the Cook Islands. “We’re not in business to hold out for the highest dollar—we’ve got to do high volume.”
Reiff has no plans to compete with Chicago’s existing architectural salvage stores. “The real high-end stuff is not our business,” he says. “We focus on the everyday—doors, windows, flooring. As a not-for-profit with a charter to keep stuff out of landfills, nobody’s doing what we’re doing.” Right now Ortiz is stashing stuff in semitrailers parked in cooperative businesses’ lots; the goal is to open a warehouse in a year or two and eventually establish what Reiff calls a “Home Cheapo, where you can come and buy a door with hardware and frame for $10.”

Like many environmental innovations, deconstruction requires a long view. It costs more up front than conventional demolition, but often costs less in the end. In other words, often you can make more money selling building materials than it will cost you to pay people to remove them carefully by hand. In 1999-2000, a study of the deconstruction of six houses in Gainesville, Florida, found the average cost of deconstruction before salvage to be $6.47 per square foot, greater than the estimated demolition cost of $5.36 per square foot. But when salvage value was included, the net deconstruction cost dropped to $3.19. When you hire the Reuse People you might pay $10-$14 per square foot, depending on the complexity of the deconstruction, and you agree to donate the salvaged materials to the not-for-profit. The tax deduction you can take on the donation, though, can range from $12 to $55 per square foot of salvaged material, which Ortiz says “usually more than offsets” the initial cost.

Every situation is different, but Reiff is confident that within ten years in many cities you won’t need a sharp pencil or a research study to prefer deconstruction. He expects conventional demolition to become less affordable, as landfill fees rise while the cost of bulldozers and the skilled labor to operate them stays high. Meanwhile, deconstruction will become cheaper as new ways to reuse old materials turn up. “Take steel casement windows,” says Reiff. “We used to just break the glass and scrap the iron. Now, in some markets, people with lofts want dividers, so you can hang multiple steel casement windows next to each other” as a partition—a reuse that’s more lucrative and more environmentally sound than recycling them as scrap.

TRP’s contractor-training program runs a total of 16 to 20 hours, many of them on the job. The students already know construction; they’re getting pointers on reversing the process. “It’s how to take out, package, ship, handle, and market services so as to maintain maximum value and maximize their sales and tax-deduction potential,” says Reiff. “Tax consequences, marketing, and how to bid a job are a big chunk of it.” There are tools to be mastered that are unique to the process, like the pneumatic Nail Kicker, which pushes nails out of wood the way they came in.

Last year the Taunton Press published Unbuilding, which Ortiz refers to as “the bible” for the budding industry. The authors are Bob Falk, a research engineer at the U.S. Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, and Brad Guy, professor of architecture at Carnegie Mellon University and president of the Building Materials Reuse Association. They call deconstruction “the ultimate green endeavor,” noting that in 1996 the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimated that “the equivalent of 250,000 single-family homes are disposed of each year, which represents an estimated 1 billion-plus board feet of available salvageable structural lumber, or about 3 percent of our annual softwood timber harvest.” The book’s full of photos that somehow manage to make even half-deconstructed buildings look good. Its how-to tips begin with the elementary—“Remove something only when you are sure that it’s not supporting any other part of the building”—and move on to reminders that old two-by-fours may actually be two inches by four inches, and that there can be a big difference between a 14-foot-1-inch length of lumber (salable as a 14-footer) and a 13-foot-11-inch length (salable only as a 12-footer). Says research architect Thomas Napier of the Corps of Engineers’ Construction Engineering Research Laboratory in Champaign, “Our project people have their routine and rhythm, and there are a lot of skeptics who value low first cost. This book will help.”

Since the Reuse People have worked in western cities famous for being green, I asked Reiff what he thinks of Chicago as a venue. “Ain’t been a better one,” he said without hesitation. “I’ve been flabbergasted every time I come back. Everyone gets it.” Ortiz echoes the point, though he acknowledges that the city official he met when seeking a permit for his first decon­struction job didn’t quite get it. “I told him, ‘We’re gonna do deconstruction, not demolition.’ He said, ‘But when you leave, there’s nothing there, right?’ ‘But I’ll be reusing the stuff!’ ‘But when you leave, there’s nothing there. You need a demolition permit.’”

Some people haven’t thought of deconstruction, but others are in denial, says Reiff: “Typically we’ll talk to someone on the phone and they’ll say the house they want torn down is a piece of junk. And it’s a great house! They just don’t want to believe they’re throwing away something of value.”

In urban areas, lack of working space can make deconstruction seem more like a Houdini act. A house Ortiz deconstructed on the 3900 block of North Janssen came to within three feet of its neighbors on either side. “We had to put four-by-eight plywood sheets over the neighbors’ property to protect it.” When it came time to remove the roof, “we cut down the middle and took it down from the inside.”

Deconstructing a building can be like indexing a book: everyone’s in a hurry for you to get it over with. Each day a developer waits to begin construction costs money, and some jurisdictions compound the problem by not allowing a building to be demolished until a building permit has been issued for its replacement. Glencoe has such a rule, but suburban officials gave Ortiz some wiggle room: “They let us do interior deconstruction without a permit—the house became like a Hollywood set.”

Well-intended environmental regulations can create problems too. For instance, lead paint is a known health hazard and a common obstacle to deconstruction, but as Bob Falk told a class at the Chicago Center for Green Technology, regulation of it is “very confused.” Not only are the regulations from the Occupational Safety and Health Administration, the Consumer Product Safety Commission, and the EPA inconsistent with each other, none set standards for reuse of wood coated with lead-based paint. Falk and Guy take a preventive approach in Unbuilding, advising their readers to “avoid sanding, grinding, and sawing anything that’s . . . coated with lead paint,” and, if you can’t, to “do it outside, wash your hands afterward, and change your clothes so you don’t contaminate the people you come in contact with.” Long-term, of course, the answer is to design buildings so that they can be deconstructed with minimal cost and hassle.
The market for structural lumber is also limited by industry standards. Used two-by-sixes, for instance, aren’t considered acceptable for their original load-bearing purpose unless they are “regraded” (a very expensive process) as able to serve as such. Falk has done extensive testing of reused lumber and is working with grading agencies to adjust standards. Reiff notes that such lumber is fine for a non-load-bearing partition, closet, or shed. But if you’re intent on reusing it structurally, he suggests that you become well acquainted with the building inspectors. “They have latitude and expertise—often the older guys will allow it.”

Architect Dave Hampton of Urban Habitat Chicago (a not-for-profit working for change “at the intersections of urban agriculture, the built environment, materials recovery and reuse, and emerging local industries”) would like the city to give an informational flyer on deconstruction to everyone who takes out a demolition permit and encourage applicants to choose deconstruction by offering quick approval or reduced fees.

More spectacularly, he’d like to see the city do a high-profile building deconstruction that would grab attention the way City Hall’s green roof did. Is that possible? Ted Reiff has no doubt. “On every job,” he says, “when we leave for the day we see people come and look—walking their dogs by, pointing, and talking. It’s hilarious.” It’s also hopeful. When a house has been part of the neighborhood for decades people hate to see it go down, says Ortiz. “But at least it’s going to continue in some way living on.”

Monday, May 25, 2009

Which is the Most Affordable City to Buy a Home in?

Pick me, pick me!

"For the 15th consecutive quarter, Indianapolis led the nation's large cities (population 500,000 and up) in home affordability. The Indiana capital tops the list due to very reasonable home prices and relatively high median income: Nearly 95% of all homes sold were affordable to those earning the metro area's median income of $68,100."