Showing posts with label home improvement. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home improvement. Show all posts

Saturday, June 13, 2009

The Recyclable House

I've been so busy recently with my first time homebuyers that I haven't had any time for posting! I've also been working on getting my NAR Green Designation (almost done!). While studying for one of the exams, I found this interesting article about Ken Ortiz, who is currently the only certified deconstructionist in the midwest. What's a deconstructionist? In terms of homes, it's basically someone who does almost the opposite of building a home. It's not like a demolition, but taking apart something very carefully and re-using the materials. Below is an article from the Chicago Reader explaining some more about this process.

~







If Ken Ortiz has his way, no one in Chicago will ever simply demolish a building again.
By Harold Henderson



Ken Ortiz has more work than he can handle. As the only certified deconstructionist in the midwest, he’d like nothing better than to train some competitors.
Ortiz doesn’t write unreadable literary criticism; he’s a Northbrook-based contractor who takes down buildings and saves almost all the pieces. After doing construction for 25 years and throwing away “tons of good building materials,” he delights in being able to save 23-foot-long two-by-sixes for reuse as two-by-sixes.

And pretty much everybody else is delighted too—environmentalists, preservationists, antiques dealers, even the folks who live around the houses he’s taking down. “I’ve never been involved with something that’s such a win-win for everybody,” he says. But few people realize that there’s an affordable alternative to conventional demolition, and building and environmental regulations aren’t yet geared to let deconstruction become less of a novelty.

Deconstructing a house is supposed to be just like building it, only in reverse. That wasn’t quite true of the house on Wilson where I met Ortiz to watch him at work. From the street, the green stucco three-story looked like its neighbors, except for the telltale 30-foot Dumpster parked in the driveway. (Ortiz hates Dumpsters, but until someone figures out how to reuse or even recycle stucco, asphalt roofing, and plaster, he’s stuck with them.)

The house had been gutted and then some. Gone were the appliances, cabinets, trim, doors, and the never-sanded three-quarter-inch red oak tongue-and-groove flooring. (“We saved 95 percent of it,” says Ortiz.) An orderly forest of upright rough-cut two-by-fours remained to hold up the structure and define where the rooms had been. Overhead, long beams ran the full width of the house.

With the lath and plaster gone, the high-quality siding underlying the stucco was visible from inside. Ortiz’s crew chief and four workers were shoveling the last of the plaster from the kitchen walls and ceiling. (Deconstruction involves more hand labor than conventional demolition.) The small backyard was divided between a “denailing station” and a stacking area for heavy lumber and appliances. The garage, also slated for deconstruction, was being saved for the moment to store molding, flooring (organized by length in banded bundles), doors with their frames and hardware, and a few unique pieces—like the solid oak classical columns that had once separated the living and dining rooms.

Deconstruction is possible because there’s a market for this stuff, and at the high end it’s been around for a while. West Wilson was Ortiz’s fourth deconstructed house, but auctioneer Jodi Murphy of La Grange Park averages an auction a week in the metro area. Last year Murphy and Ortiz worked together on a Glencoe house built in 1950 and renovated in 1994. “After Jodi took out all the pretty stuff,” says Ortiz, “we removed two 48-foot semitrailers full of lumber and building materials.”

Marketing these items requires some organization, and that’s where Ted Reiff and his brainchild, the Reuse People of America, or TRP (thereusepeople.org), come in. Reiff, aka “the man with the velvet crowbar,” is an investment banker turned nonprofit entrepreneur. Now headquartered in Oakland, TRP started in 1993 as a relief operation to help flood victims in Mexico. It’s now active in Seattle, Boulder, Denver, San Diego, Los Angeles, and the Bay Area, has deconstructed more than 1,000 buildings, and is moving into Chicago. Ortiz is TRP’s regional manager.

“Anyone can save something and keep it out of the landfill,” Reiff told the authors of the book Unbuilding: Salvaging the Architectural Treasures of Unwanted Houses. “Contractors save stuff all the time. Their garages are full, their backyards are full”—Ortiz has his own cache of iron window weights from old double-hung windows. “But eventually they throw most of the materials away because they run out of room,” he said. “The challenge as I see it is to move salvaged materials to markets where they can be reused.”

Some of these markets are nearby—locally deconstructed lumber has gone to Habitat for Humanity’s Restore in Elgin. Some are overseas. “We ship a tremendous amount of our product to Mexico, especially southern yellow pine,” says Reiff. Some high-end woods go to Japan—“They appreciate lumber; they don’t have any”—where they may turn up in cowboy-themed restaurants. Other destinations include Belize, Chile, the Philippines, and the Cook Islands. “We’re not in business to hold out for the highest dollar—we’ve got to do high volume.”
Reiff has no plans to compete with Chicago’s existing architectural salvage stores. “The real high-end stuff is not our business,” he says. “We focus on the everyday—doors, windows, flooring. As a not-for-profit with a charter to keep stuff out of landfills, nobody’s doing what we’re doing.” Right now Ortiz is stashing stuff in semitrailers parked in cooperative businesses’ lots; the goal is to open a warehouse in a year or two and eventually establish what Reiff calls a “Home Cheapo, where you can come and buy a door with hardware and frame for $10.”

Like many environmental innovations, deconstruction requires a long view. It costs more up front than conventional demolition, but often costs less in the end. In other words, often you can make more money selling building materials than it will cost you to pay people to remove them carefully by hand. In 1999-2000, a study of the deconstruction of six houses in Gainesville, Florida, found the average cost of deconstruction before salvage to be $6.47 per square foot, greater than the estimated demolition cost of $5.36 per square foot. But when salvage value was included, the net deconstruction cost dropped to $3.19. When you hire the Reuse People you might pay $10-$14 per square foot, depending on the complexity of the deconstruction, and you agree to donate the salvaged materials to the not-for-profit. The tax deduction you can take on the donation, though, can range from $12 to $55 per square foot of salvaged material, which Ortiz says “usually more than offsets” the initial cost.

Every situation is different, but Reiff is confident that within ten years in many cities you won’t need a sharp pencil or a research study to prefer deconstruction. He expects conventional demolition to become less affordable, as landfill fees rise while the cost of bulldozers and the skilled labor to operate them stays high. Meanwhile, deconstruction will become cheaper as new ways to reuse old materials turn up. “Take steel casement windows,” says Reiff. “We used to just break the glass and scrap the iron. Now, in some markets, people with lofts want dividers, so you can hang multiple steel casement windows next to each other” as a partition—a reuse that’s more lucrative and more environmentally sound than recycling them as scrap.

TRP’s contractor-training program runs a total of 16 to 20 hours, many of them on the job. The students already know construction; they’re getting pointers on reversing the process. “It’s how to take out, package, ship, handle, and market services so as to maintain maximum value and maximize their sales and tax-deduction potential,” says Reiff. “Tax consequences, marketing, and how to bid a job are a big chunk of it.” There are tools to be mastered that are unique to the process, like the pneumatic Nail Kicker, which pushes nails out of wood the way they came in.

Last year the Taunton Press published Unbuilding, which Ortiz refers to as “the bible” for the budding industry. The authors are Bob Falk, a research engineer at the U.S. Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, and Brad Guy, professor of architecture at Carnegie Mellon University and president of the Building Materials Reuse Association. They call deconstruction “the ultimate green endeavor,” noting that in 1996 the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimated that “the equivalent of 250,000 single-family homes are disposed of each year, which represents an estimated 1 billion-plus board feet of available salvageable structural lumber, or about 3 percent of our annual softwood timber harvest.” The book’s full of photos that somehow manage to make even half-deconstructed buildings look good. Its how-to tips begin with the elementary—“Remove something only when you are sure that it’s not supporting any other part of the building”—and move on to reminders that old two-by-fours may actually be two inches by four inches, and that there can be a big difference between a 14-foot-1-inch length of lumber (salable as a 14-footer) and a 13-foot-11-inch length (salable only as a 12-footer). Says research architect Thomas Napier of the Corps of Engineers’ Construction Engineering Research Laboratory in Champaign, “Our project people have their routine and rhythm, and there are a lot of skeptics who value low first cost. This book will help.”

Since the Reuse People have worked in western cities famous for being green, I asked Reiff what he thinks of Chicago as a venue. “Ain’t been a better one,” he said without hesitation. “I’ve been flabbergasted every time I come back. Everyone gets it.” Ortiz echoes the point, though he acknowledges that the city official he met when seeking a permit for his first decon­struction job didn’t quite get it. “I told him, ‘We’re gonna do deconstruction, not demolition.’ He said, ‘But when you leave, there’s nothing there, right?’ ‘But I’ll be reusing the stuff!’ ‘But when you leave, there’s nothing there. You need a demolition permit.’”

Some people haven’t thought of deconstruction, but others are in denial, says Reiff: “Typically we’ll talk to someone on the phone and they’ll say the house they want torn down is a piece of junk. And it’s a great house! They just don’t want to believe they’re throwing away something of value.”

In urban areas, lack of working space can make deconstruction seem more like a Houdini act. A house Ortiz deconstructed on the 3900 block of North Janssen came to within three feet of its neighbors on either side. “We had to put four-by-eight plywood sheets over the neighbors’ property to protect it.” When it came time to remove the roof, “we cut down the middle and took it down from the inside.”

Deconstructing a building can be like indexing a book: everyone’s in a hurry for you to get it over with. Each day a developer waits to begin construction costs money, and some jurisdictions compound the problem by not allowing a building to be demolished until a building permit has been issued for its replacement. Glencoe has such a rule, but suburban officials gave Ortiz some wiggle room: “They let us do interior deconstruction without a permit—the house became like a Hollywood set.”

Well-intended environmental regulations can create problems too. For instance, lead paint is a known health hazard and a common obstacle to deconstruction, but as Bob Falk told a class at the Chicago Center for Green Technology, regulation of it is “very confused.” Not only are the regulations from the Occupational Safety and Health Administration, the Consumer Product Safety Commission, and the EPA inconsistent with each other, none set standards for reuse of wood coated with lead-based paint. Falk and Guy take a preventive approach in Unbuilding, advising their readers to “avoid sanding, grinding, and sawing anything that’s . . . coated with lead paint,” and, if you can’t, to “do it outside, wash your hands afterward, and change your clothes so you don’t contaminate the people you come in contact with.” Long-term, of course, the answer is to design buildings so that they can be deconstructed with minimal cost and hassle.
The market for structural lumber is also limited by industry standards. Used two-by-sixes, for instance, aren’t considered acceptable for their original load-bearing purpose unless they are “regraded” (a very expensive process) as able to serve as such. Falk has done extensive testing of reused lumber and is working with grading agencies to adjust standards. Reiff notes that such lumber is fine for a non-load-bearing partition, closet, or shed. But if you’re intent on reusing it structurally, he suggests that you become well acquainted with the building inspectors. “They have latitude and expertise—often the older guys will allow it.”

Architect Dave Hampton of Urban Habitat Chicago (a not-for-profit working for change “at the intersections of urban agriculture, the built environment, materials recovery and reuse, and emerging local industries”) would like the city to give an informational flyer on deconstruction to everyone who takes out a demolition permit and encourage applicants to choose deconstruction by offering quick approval or reduced fees.

More spectacularly, he’d like to see the city do a high-profile building deconstruction that would grab attention the way City Hall’s green roof did. Is that possible? Ted Reiff has no doubt. “On every job,” he says, “when we leave for the day we see people come and look—walking their dogs by, pointing, and talking. It’s hilarious.” It’s also hopeful. When a house has been part of the neighborhood for decades people hate to see it go down, says Ortiz. “But at least it’s going to continue in some way living on.”

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

There are no passengers on Spaceship Earth. We are all crew. ~Marshall McLuhan, 1964

Happy Earth Day! I think for the most part, it's a good thing that the trend of going green has become more mainstream. At least people are aware of the direction that we need to head and with more companies realizing this, they are able to make products and services that are making it easier for people to do so. Here's an article that I snagged from BHG.com that lists 10 easy ways to go green.



10 Easy Ways to Go Green

by Kelly Tagore





Change a Light Bulb
Installing a compact fluorescent bulb (CFL) is the quickest, easiest way to save energy -- and money. Unlike incandescents, CFLs convert most of the energy they use into light rather than heat.
Good for You: They consume about 75 percent less electricity and last up to 10 times longer (10,000 hours as opposed to 1,500). Replace one 75-watt incandescent bulb with a 25-watt CFL and save up to $83 over the life of the bulb.



Unplug Things That Glow
Anything that has an LED (light emitting diode) that glows even after you turn it off continues to draw power (that you pay for). Your TV, cell phone charger, and printer are likely culprits. Unplug the offenders from wall sockets and plug them into power strips instead. When you leave a room, flip the strip switch to cut the flow of electricity.
Good for You: Unplug appliances and electronics that glow and you could save $200 a year.



Recycle Your Electronics
Americans tossed out a whopping 5.5 billion pounds of electronics -- TVs, stereos, cell phones, and computers -- in 2005, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. The result? Millions of pounds of chemicals and heavy metals ended up in the ground even though it's easier than ever to recycle electronics. The Consumer Electronics Association created mygreenelectronics.org to help people find a recycling resource in their area. The site also provides a list of electronics, from laptops to baby monitors, that are easier on the environment and your energy bill.
Good for You: The average American household has three cell phones stashed in a drawer. Sell unused cell phones to greenphone.com. You'll receive about $35, and the phones will be refurbished and resold. If 1 million people recycled one cathode-ray tube TV this year, we'd keep 4 million pounds of lead out of the ground.



Audit Your Energy
It's easier to save energy when you know exactly how much and where you're using it. Investing in a home audit takes a couple of hours and pays off with a list of things you can do to curb consumption. Find an auditor through your utility company (at low or no cost), or hire one ($450-$650). A list of auditors certified by the nonprofit Residential Energy Services Network, is at resnet.us (click on Consumer Information).
Good for You: On average, an energy audit shows how to save up to 30 percent on utility bills.



Support Local Farmers
If your food could talk, it would tell quite a tale. Typical grocery store produce travels nearly 1,500 miles before it ends up on your plate. All this traveling burns fossil fuels and results in carbon emissions -- a fancy term for pollution. Buying from local farmers means you're not only getting the freshest food possible, you're saving energy.
Good for You: To find farmers nationwide, visit localharvest.org, sustainabletable.org, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture at www.ams.usda.govfarmersmarkets/map.htm.



Fix That Drip
When you next fill your water glass, think about this: We each use about 100 gallons a day, enough to fill 1,600 glasses. Household water consumption has increased by 200 percent since 1950, even though the population has grown by only 90 percent. As a result, more than 36 states are expected to face water shortages in the next six years. Stemming the flow is as easy as fixing a leaky faucet or toilet; a dripping faucet can waste up to 74 gallons a day, a leaking toilet up to 200 gallons a day.
Good for You: Repair a leaky toilet and you can save $30 a year, which may not sound like much until you realize it means 73,000 gallons.



Let Your Grass Grow
Spending less time tending to your lawn actually makes it greener -- in every sense of the word. Most grass species fare best when they're kept at least 2 1/2 inches tall. The length creates more surface area to absorb sunlight, which creates thicker turf and deeper roots, which means you won't need to water as often.
Good for You: Save money by letting grass clippings remain on your lawn; it adds nitrogen to the soil and discourages weed seeds from germinating. You'll need less fertilizer and herbicide. Plus, leaving clippings on lawns means less in landfills; in 2005 Americans disposed of more than 12 million tons of yard waste.



Look for the Label
When it's time to replace a household appliance, choose a product with an Energy Star label. Sponsored by the EPA and the Department of Energy, the Energy Star program rates products from light bulbs to kitchen appliances. Energy Star labels guarantee that products are energy-efficient. For example, a battery charger labeled with the Energy Star logo will use 35 percent less energy than a standard one. You may even be eligible for a tax credit when you purchase an Energy Star product. Information at energystar.gov.
Good for You: A household with Energy Star products uses about 30 percent less energy than the average household -- an annual savings of about $570.



Do Full Loads
Whenever you wash just a few clothes or dishes at a time rather than waiting for a full load to accumulate, you're wasting water, power, and money. The average American family of four washes about 540 loads of laundry a year, which consumes up to 21,000 gallons of water, and more than 150 loads of dishes, which uses about 1,500 gallons. Most of the energy consumed by washers goes toward heating the water -- about 90 percent in the clothes washer and 80 percent in the dishwasher. Combining half-loads, choosing short cycles, and using cold or warm rather than hot water in the clothes washer racks up savings.
Good for You: Wash two fewer loads of clothes and one fewer load of dishes a week and save up to 4,500 gallons of water a year.



Work the Critters
Your backyard ecosystem is as intricate as any wild patch of land, and it pays in many ways to enlist its creatures on your side. Birds eat many insects; they just need a water source and trees and shrubs for cover and nesting. Many insects are beautiful -- and beneficial. Ladybugs aren't just cute; they are voracious eaters of aphids.
Good for You: To understand which backyard insects are garden friends, visit garden.org and click on Pest Control Library for photos.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Wallpaper Woes

We had a crazy winter storm earlier this week, over 10 inches of snow, schools closed and most people were lucky enough to stay home from work. Snowed in with no way out- except for perhaps by dog sled (my little Westie would disappear in the snow), I was inspired to take a look around my home and see what I should put next on my to-do list. All this extra time on my hands was driving my crazy, so I go out some pen & paper and got to work.



First on the list- my master bedroom. It is ridiculous that I have not done anything with it. The walls are pink- like cotton candy pink, and it has this hideous pink/green/orange wallpaper border that I've been dying to get rid of.



Another easy one- the office. This bedroom/office also has some soon, moon, & stars decals and some more celestial wallpaper border.



Kitchen- this is not going to be pretty. Whoever owned this house before decided that thick, floral wallpaper was in. It looks pretty expensive too, vinyl type and they decided even to do a matching window covering. *shudders*



And finally- the bathroom. Some different vinyl style wallpaper that has just go to go, but it's a little more neutral so at least I don't freak out going in there.





I have come up with some "budget design" ideas for each room, trying to keep costs minimal. First thing is first, I knew I had to deal with all of this hideous wallpaper. Since I was snowed in, I tried googling some ideas for wallpaper removal and put together a home-made concoction of warm water, fabric softener, & vinegar. I took a little knife for scoring, made a few slashes to do a test spot, and then used a sponge to saturate the wallpaper border in my bedroom- just a test spot.



Did not work. I was quite frustrated and used the rest of the afternoon to shovel some more snow.



Yesterday, I decided I was going to do this right and try to rent a steamer. Apparently hardware stores don't do this anymore (they said it wasn't cost effective) and I had to compromise. I bought some Dif, along with the official "paper tiger" and scraper. I was a little tired yesterday evening and tried to do another test spot but it still wasn't coming off like it should.







Today, after I show a few houses and go to a client's baby shower, I'm going to spend a little one and one time with my walls. Hopefully I'll come up with a solution that I can share. I did take some pictures as well, so maybe soon I can post some "before & after" shots. I don't want it to come to this.... but if I get desperate, I may have to *gasp* hire someone. Not ready to throw in the towel yet though.

Sunday, November 30, 2008

One kind word can warm three winter months. ~Japanese Proverb

This morning I woke up to the first real snow that we've had here in Indianapolis. This prompted me to add a project this week for my to-do list- purchase and install a programmable thermostat. I constantly talk to my clients about how great they are for saving money on utilities, but I don't even have on in my own home! (Shame on me, I'm always recommending things for my clients to do to their home, things I have not done yet. Hey, it's like a doctor who smokes or doesn't exercise). This is a great thing to do if you have an older home, with an outdated thermostat because you can have pre-programmed settings for the temperature in your home. The Energy Star website has some extra info about this and suggestions on how to program them.

Anyway, I found this handy do-it-yourself video from This Old House's website. Now I just need to narrow down which one I would like to purchase. My house is smaller, a little over 1400 sq ft, so I don't need anything fancy. My work schedule usually is seven days a week, with Saturday and Sunday being a little lighter. So, I'm interested in the 5+2 day models (programmable for weekday and weekend). It seems like these are ranging between $30-$40. The small price of that (plus asking nicely for my dad to come over and help with installation) will be well worth the potential savings this coming winter... especially since I have older windows that will eventually need to be replaced (that's a whole nother post).